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AuVISED EDITION 1886. 



PRICE 25^ 



A LADY'S BOOK 



ON 



ARC+emBROIDGRY 



IN SILK, 



■<*ENGRKVED PHTTERNS.K- 



Compiled by C. C. PERKINS. 




JUL 30 i 



PUBLISHED BY 

M. HEMmWAY & SONS SILK 00. 

JIANUFACTURKES OF 

SUPERIORJ^SILK FOR DECORATIVE NEEDLE WORK. 

1886. 



.? 



v^ 




{^ 



Entered .-vccordin^ to Act ,>( Congress, In ttiu year :sS6,by Gkorgk C. Perkins, 
m the uHice of the Librarian, at Wnshinjton, D. C. 



INTRODUCTORY. 



iUR last publication on "Art Embroidery" having met with such universal 
favor by ladies interested in fancy work, wc have felt prompted to con- 
tinue our efforts in making a general revision of the book by adding many 
illustrations of new articles and designs that have more recently come before 
our notice. 

No substitute can ever be found to take the place of the Kensington and 
single and double outline stitches, for they are used in most every piece of 
work and will ever continue popular. The appearance may be changed by 
using different sizes in silks and flosses. 

Within the past year a very important discovery has been made by us (and 
is confined to us), in producing the Japan Wash Embroidery Silk and Japan 
Floss. 

So much silk is used on wash material it is quite necessary the dye should 
not run into the material when washed, and until now we never could posi- 
tively warrant bright colors fast. 

We have great faith in our Japan silks and take pleasure in recommending 
them to the public for trial. We do not retail our silks. They will be found 
on sale hy leading dealers in all the principal cities of the United States and 
Canada. If yon cannot procure what j'ou want we will cheerfully recommend 
you to parties who keep extensive assortments of our productions and every- 
thing re(|uisitG for fancj' work. 

Persons who lack a natural taste for shading flowers will be aided in select- 
ing colors by referring to page 76. 

A small hand hoop is most convenient for a small piece of work, and for 
large pieces there are several patented frames, which are sold at all Art 



4 A lady's book on ARf EMBROIDERY IN SiLg. 

Needlework stores. We recommend either, the Common Sense, Green's, 
Ludwig's, or the Ideal. If an article gets out of shape in working, attach it 
right side up securely to a board covered with a damp cloth, and let it remain 
until dry. 

If by an oversight of ours, or mistake of the printer, there shouM be diffi- 
culty in understanding our explanations and illustrations we would thank our 
readers to consult us personally, or by letter; also, if any lady has sugges- 
tions to make, treating on Art P]nibroidery, we would be glad to know theni 
and give her due credit for the same. New designs are being constantly 
brought out and we should not be at all surprised if our book No. 4 would 
shortly follow this. 

Our books can be procured of dealers in embroidery materials, or will be 
mailed to any address on receipt of 25 cents in stamps. 

M. HEMINWAY & SONS SILK CO., 

78 Reade & 99 Church Sts., Now York. 
116 Arch St., Philadelphia. 
Watertown, Conn. 



EMBROIDERY AS AK AR*. 

Embroidery means literally " to border " — to decorate the border. It 
probably originated with stitching, or the sewing together with some 
kind of thread and needle, and is said to be of very ancient origin. 

The history of this art needs no rehearsal ; it seems to be a fcminir.c 
instinct in every nation, each one having its own peculiarity and taste. 
Turkish embroidery has its own scale of color, its own special designs. 

In spite of the ridicule cast upon this style of decoration in olden 
times, in spite of the delicate nature of the work, embroidery has com- 
manded the serious attention of women everywhere. It is not a " fancy 
work," it may be the expression of a pure and artistic fancy. It is not 
alone the art of bordering in stitches, it is the fine art of stitchery, it is a 
mode of expression. 

What does it matter if a lady uses a needle instead of a pen, crayon, 
or brush ? What concern if her figures are more true to a thread than a 
key-board ? Embroidery is a mode of expression, and it demands and 
wins respect. 

Of recent years the art of embroidery has in this country made won- 
derful progress and is still on the increase. It has commanded the at- 
tention of artists and won the respect and admiration of the most culti- 
vated people. It has'created a demand for new fabrics, and given an 
impetus to the manufacture of textile materials that cannot fail to be of 
the greatest benefit to the country. Moreover, the art has greatly 
widened its scope and materially changed its methods. It has even at- 
tempted to be pictorial. How far it can go in this direction is still under 
experiment. There may be limitations to pictorial eml)roidery (luickly 
reached, and beyond which it can never go. Much of the new em- 
broidery is imitative — an experimental feeling after a new and fresher 
mode of expression. It will find its bearings in due time. Meanwhile, 
It is of the greatest interest to watch the progress of the new art, to learn 
what it can do, and to leave to just criticism to eventually define its ar- 
tistic limits. 

With the Wonderful Advance of Embroidery 

In this country has grown an equal interest in tapestry, and in considering 
the new embroidery the new tapestry must first be examined. This 
work uses the needle as a means of expression. It employs, like embroid- 



A LAt»Y's BOOK 



cry, a fabric for a background or basis, but, unlilie embroidery, it employs 
only one stitch. A piece of the new embroidery may employ many 
lei lids of fabrics and every variety of needle-work. A piece of tapestry 
has only one fabric as a backing, and the work is a whole, one complete 
fabric with a uniform surface. The art is practically the stitching into 
a woven fabric of new threads that pass under the warp and over the 
filling. The new thread, if of a different color, appears as a line of 
mirmte dots upon the cloth, and forming an integral part of the fabric. 
Having thus tlic use of a line of color, it is easy to so compose these lines 
that the}' shall produce a pictorial effect. In this manner a simple run- 
ning stitch becomes the basis of the most striking and beautiful artistic 
effects. To distinguish such work from a more mechanical work it is 
called hand-wrought tapestry. Such work as now employed is clearly 
.superior to any work done before. It lends itself to the most refined 
and delicate art, and more nearly resembles painting than any form of 
needle-work. 

The Art of Embroidery 

As now carried out in this country is practically the art of stitchery. It 
is not a thing apart from common sewing, but includes all needle-work. 
Whatever can be done with the needle is usefid, in greater or less degree, 
in embroidery. At the same time, mere ornamental stitching in colors 
may not be embroidery at all. It is the art, the design, the drawing, 
the color, that makes embroidery a success. All else is waste of time 
and labor. Do anything, but get your effect and produce nature in 
needle-work. 

The Bejiiiiner in Embroidery 

Will naturally take up first the decoration of toilet and table linen. 
For this work the patterns are best in outline in one color. Choose 
simple things, natural objects, sprays of foliage, or outline of flowers, 
ferns or mosses. A step farther may lead to insects, colored shells, etc. 
Copy always, as far as possible, from nature. To see how easily natural 
forms and colors can be reproduced, notice the little Japanese pictures 
so common everywhere. A mere dash or two of the brush serves t.> 
indicate a whole flower. Simplicity is the chief thing in embroidery 
till we advance to the very highest art, and cop}' nature directly in some 
splendid curtain, rich with portraits of a hundred different roses. 

C. B. 



ON ART EMKROIDERY IN SILK. 



SINGLE OUTLINE STITCH. 










\ — 'I A^ 7 \ ^''^ 



X 



c::A^i 







The above illustration explains itself better than any written formula 
can. The stitch is used most commonly for making stamens and veins 
gf leaves, but never for filling in or shading. 



A lady's book 



DOUBLE OUTLINE OR SKELETON STITCH. 









/r\% 







This is done ia the regular enibroideiy stitch, maliiug every second 
or thirJ stitch longer than the others, after which the veins of the leaves 
are traced in the single outline stitch. 



FRENCH ItNOT. 




This stitch is used for the centre of flowers and for making a raised 
foundation for such flowers as the golden rod and snowball. 

It is made by taking a back stitch, passing the silk tv,]ce around the 
needle and drawing the latter thr-^ugh, at the sanip tiwc holding the coj) 
down in place. 



ON ART EMBROIDERY IN SIlK. 



CHAIN STITCH. 




This stitch is particularly useful for tacking clown the edges of ap- 
plique work on any article. "We have seen it used for outlining, but it 
makes too coarse a line. The illustratioa explains how the stitch is 
made. 



Tracing Stitch 

Is useful in applique embroidery, and is worked by laying down a line 
of filoselle or embroidery silk. Secure it with a thread of another 
color by bringing it up from the back of the material on one side of the 
embroidery silk and carry it back on the other. 

The stitches which secure the silk should be perfectly equal in their 
distances from each other. Gold cords can be fastened down in the same 
way, using fine sewing silk to fasten them. When the outline is finished, 
a small hole should be pierced and the cord cut off and passed through 
to the other side where it is fastened. 



10 



A lady's book 



ILLUSTRATIONS OF I>ARNING. 











V'lsyL 










This simple stitcli can be used in many ways. A design can be out- 
lined and the interior darned, or the interior can be left blank and tlie 
background darned. The effect can be changed by using filoselle 
(split), embroidery silk or etching silk; each will give a different appear- 
ance to the work. We have seen this stitch used for making apples, 
cherries and oranges, and they show to good advantage. 



I 



ON ART EMBROIDERY IN SILK. 



11 



WEAVING OR QUEEN ANNE STITCH. 








-"si 




The above illustrations explain themselves perhaps better than a 
written formula. 

First outline the flower either in Heminway's embroidery, etching 
or split filling silk. If the work is to be on a fine close woven material, 
Japan etching silk is best. If on oongee or coarse linen, embroidery 
silk shows to better advantage. 

In weaving, cover each petal with parallel stitches extending from one 
outline to the other, leaving very small space between each. Cross these 
at right angles in the regular darning stitch. 

The effect may be varied by altering the angle at which the silk 
crosses. 



Embroiderers should have an eye for color, and know something of 
drawing, and at the same time they should have a love of tlowers imd 
cultivate the habit of observing them carefully. 

They will then instinctively avoid those which are beyond the range 
of their art and content themselves with such forms and colors as can be 
pleasantly rendered in silk. 



12 



A lady's book 



KENSINGTON STITCH. 

This stitch derives its name from the celebrated art school at Soulli 
Kensington, England. 

It is not, as is generally supposed, simply a stitch of itself, but is a plan 
of shading and blending in of colors, according to the principles of art, 
by using a combination of stitches to secure artistic effect. By this stitcii 
or plan only are we able to achieve success and satisfaction in embroidery 
in natural colors. 




Observe in the illustratio] he position of the needle in taking the 
stitches in the stem, leaf and flower. Commence the work on the stem 
( f Ihc design, using the oulline stitcli ; the stem made, commence on the 
li af at the centre line at the lower part, giving the needle the slant up- 
wards on the angle of the natural veins in the leaf (see illustration); the 
stitches mu^t be in length proportioned tt) the size of the leaf. If the 
leaf be a small, tiny one, one shade of the leaf color is sufficient, in wuich 



ON ART EMBROIDERY IN SILK. 



13 



case take the stitch from outline to centre ; but in larger leaves, where two 
or more shades are required to fill the leaf, proportion the stitch according to 
the number of shades used (see illustration). 

These stitches must be made of irregular lengths where they are to join 
and blend with the next shade, so as to more perfectly blend in the shades 
(see illustration). 

In making the flower, commence on the outer edge of the petals, etching 
up from the centre or circle of flower (as shown in illustration), proportion 
the length of stitch as in the leaf, shading down towards the centre with 
darker shades of the flower color, according to the principles of art. 

Thus it will be noticed that in this combination we use the outline stitch; 
the satin stitch, the appliqued stitch (this stitch being caught down at each 
end by a short blind stitch. - By this, nearly all the material is brought on the 
face of the work without the waste there is in satin stitch, which leaves as 
much on the back side as on the face of the work), and the French knot 
stitch, which is used to represent the seeds in the centre, and also, when 
required, on the ends of the stamens, as in the illustration. 

We are indebted to Mrs. L. Maria Cheeny, of Detroit, Mich., for tlie above 
excellent representation of Keusington stitch. 



COUCHING STITCH. 




The couching stitch is very much used with three or more full threads of 
filling silk caught down at regular intervals. It is also used with Japanese 
gold and copper thread, which is used very extensively. 



14. 



A LADY S BOOK 



SN^OW-BALL FLOWER. 




Make the foundation in double French knot in double crewel, so as to 
bring it out in bold relief. Attach to this very narrow silk ribbon, cut in 
pieces three quarters of an inch long and pointed at the ends. These 
are crossed and fastened with gold silk. 

It is advisable to put in Ihe small pieces of ribbon closely together and 
fray the ends. Tbe eifect produced is quite natural. 

We are told by The Art Amateur that the feathery fronds of the 
wild clematis have undergone the same transformation. 

This is much more easily accomplished. Instead of using silk ri])bon, 
arrasene is cut and fastened down by silk stitches, and imitates perfectly 
the fuzzy effect of the wild flower. 

What is commonly known as the wild cucumber, a remarkably luxuri- 
ous vine with white feathery sprays, is imitated by couching down white 
arrasene and chenille, thus throwing the spray into marked relief. 



ON ART EMBROIDERY IN SILK. 18 



GOLD THREAD CROSSED WITH SILK. 

First in order in ornamental stitches come those wliich are done by laying 
gold thread or plate in certain patterns, and fastening down the same with 
ornamental stitclies of silk. This work is generally used as filling for de- 
signs already outlined with thick gold thread or cord, or for portions of rich 
gold embroidery where it ia desired to have a variety of different stitches. 




Fig. 49. 
When gold thread is used for this class of work, it should either be the 
thickest made, or, if finer thread is preferred, two lengths of it should be laid 
together. Fig. 49 shows the thread or plate laid down in diagonal lines, so as 
to form a diamond pattern. The lines sliould be accurately measured, and 
may be ruled on tlie material with tailors' chalk, which has a fine edge, and 
makes a clear line. It is safest to fasten the threads at the points of inter- 
section with fine silk or cotton first, miless the worker is sufficiently skillful 
to make the ornamental stitch the sole fastening. The cross-stitch must be 
of silk of some color contrasting with the gold — red, blue, or green look best — 
and it should be of some thickness — either a twist or a thick strand of em- 
broidery silk. Otherwise it will look poor. The lengths of gold thread or 
plate should be first laid down and secured firmly at the ends, before the 
ornamental stitches are begun. In the centre of the diamonds may hs 
placed a French knot made of line gold parsing, or a small coil of fine gold 
thread, sewn down with self-colored Maltese silk, or any other device that 
suggests itself to the worker. Tlie figure shows the pattern as it would looli 
if "plate" were used, but single or double lines of gold thread might 1)6 
treated in exactlj^ the same manner. The fastening stitch of silk may also 
be varied in many ways. It may be observed that gold thread, being round, 
and therefore giving a varied effect, is always richer than pi ito, which has 
in all cases a somewhat tinselly look, and is not to be recniinncndod. Japa- 
nese or Chinese gold thread is the most suitable for tliis class of laid work. 
or fine gold cord may be used with very admirable effect. Fig. 50 shows tlr 



16 



A LADT'S book 



gold threads laid two together in parallel lines at measured distances. It 
would always be safest to secure these lines lightly by invisible stitches of 




Figs. 50 and 51. 
Maltese silk first. The ornamental fastening stitches of colored and some- 
wliat thick silk arc then taken across the first row of double gold at measured 
intervals. The second row is then fastened down, and the ornamental 
stitches taken at the same distances, but exactly between those of the pre- 
vious row. In place of two straight stitches, as shown in the cut, a cross- 
stitch may be substituted, and another variety may be introduced by alter- 
nating cross and straight stitches. 

The pattern indicated in Fig. 51 shows the ornamental stitches taken two 
together at right angles, and at measured distances, across two of the double 
linos of gold instead of one, and alternately, as in Fig. 50. A third stitch i,s 
then taken at right angles crossing the two fastening stitches. This pattern 
may also be varied by taking the stitches diagonally instead of straight, and 
forming a long cross, or by alternating cross and straight stitches. In Fig. 
52 the threads of gold or plate are laid singly in parallel lines at measured 
distances, crossing each other so as to form squares. These lines should be 
secured by small invisible cross-stitches in Maltese silk at the points of in- 
tersection. The ornamental fastening stitches are then taken from side to 
side of the squares, forming a cross in the centre, and this cross is again se- 
cured by a smaller cross-stitch taken diagonally over the point where the two 
threads of silk meet. These ornamental crossings may be taken over every 
alternate square as shown in the cut, or the alternate squares may be left 
vacant. In this case small crossings of colored silk at the points of inter- 
section of the squares of gold may be introduced with very good effect. 

Numerous varieties may be made in this pattern by disposing the orna- 
mental fastening stitches in different ways. For instance, a small diamond 
may be made by grouping four of these ornamental squares together, and 
leaving one or more blank squares between. It would always be necessary 
in such a case to have the small crosses to secure the intersections of the 



ON ART EMBROIDERT IX SILK. 



17 



gold lines, but they might be made in different colored siilv from the large 
cross, with very rich effect. For instance, a rich brown might be used for 




Fig. 52. 
the small stitches, and a lighter shade for the larger ones. The ornamental 
crossing stitches migjit also be taken diagonally from corner to corner of the 
squares, and the point of intersection covered with a knot-stitch which 
would give a very rich effect. Knotted stitches might again be introduced 
in tlic centre of the blank or uncrossed squares. Fig. 53 shows double gold 
tlircads or cords laid in lines crossing each other at right angles as in Fig. 
52, but in this case the gold is secured either by simple tent-stitches, or by 
ordinary cross-stitches of thick, colored silk. Here, again, almost any variety 
may be 'produced by the manner in which the silk crossings are arranged in 
large or small diamonds, alternating disks or squares, or Tandycks, always 
remembering that the fastenings maybe made invisible by using Maltese silk 
the exact tone of the gold; and the colored twist silk may be treated entirely 
as a decoration, and the stitches taken in it disposed in any way that a skill- 
ful worker can think of as a variety. 

The stitches hitherto described under this variety of laid gold work have 
been only those to be executed with thick twist silk, but a great variety may 
be produced by using strands of thick embroider3^ In Fig. 54 are shown 
parallel lines of single gold thread, or plate. Crossings of soft silk are taken 



18 



A lady's book 



over three of the gold Knes together, at right angles, the needle is just passed 
through the material and brought up again almost at the same place, and then 
again taken over three more of the gold lines. This is continued across the 
whole space to be covered by the pattern three times; that is to say, three 
rows of silk stitches must be side by side across the gold. The stitches 



I^S 



te 



(^ 



(S 







Fig. 53. 
must be taken rather closely together, but not too closely to allow the gold 
to show slightly through. In the next row, the silk is taken over two lines 
of gold, instead of three, then two lines of gold are left uncovered, the silk 
being taken through the material beyond the two first lines, and brought up 
again on the near side of the fifth line, so as to leave two lines vacant. This 
stitch is also continued across the whole design. A second row, the same as 
above, is worked side by side with it to the edge of the space, the silk threads 
being kept as before just far enough apart to allow the gold to be seen 




Fig. 54. 
through very sliglitly. In the next row the stitches over two lines of gold 
are taken in a line with the intermediate spaces of the previous rows, and 



ON ART EMBROIDERY IN SILK. 



19 



this is repeated once again. Again, two rows of stitclies are taken over two 
lines of gold alternating with the last; that is, in a hne with the first rows. 
This forms the whole repeat, the next three rows being taken over three 
lines of gold as at the beginning. "When carried over a large space this stitch 
is a very effective one. It is often found in the very beautiful embroideries 
of ancient times, chiefly as filling ujj the backgrounds of figure-pieces. This 
particular pattern lias been selected as being one of tlie most effective; but 
it is obvious that it may be regarded merely as a type, and that an infinite 
variety may be worked out in the same style, by simply changing the order 
in which the crossing stitches are taken. Two different colored silks may 
also be used, if carefully selected with regard to tlie tone of the gold which 
will show through with very good effect. Kindness of '-Art Amateur." 



DRAWN WORK. 





The designs here given illustrate a pretty pattern for the popular drawn 
work. The threads of linen or any canvas are carefully drawn and knotted 
together with thread. Handsome borders are made on pillow-shams, splashers, 
towels, baby afghans, tea-tray covers, luncheon cloths, buffet covers, etc. 
Coarse linen looks better than that of a finer (juality, and the border should 
be finished with a long knotted fringe. 

Notice illustrations of drawn work on pages 33 and 34. 



20 



A lady's book 



RICK-BACK DAISY. 




Crochet the centre with yellow embroidery silk or Ileminway's pure 
dye knitting silk, and gather in the rick-rack braid as is shown in the 
cut. 

Another style of daisy may be made of felt, tlie white petals, or points 
being connected where they come towards the yellow centre. 



PLUSH PETALS FOR ROSES, PANSIES, ETC. 

if Ik. 4i 




The above illustrations represent the three shapes necessary to form a 
wild rose, using two each of the smaller styles and one of the large. 

These petals can be procured at art embroidery stores or they can be 
cut from the piece and edges turned in. Embroider the centre of the 
rose with dark olive chenille and knots of yellow brown floss with 
stitches of a paler shade for the stamens. 



ON ART EMBROIDERY IN SILK. 



21 



CHILD'S BIB. 





Liueu toweling is the Ijcst material for children's bibs, and can be orna- 
mented very prettily by outlining with Japan wash silk some simple pattern. 



PLUSH STITCH. 



This stitch is best adapted for making such llowers as golden rod, 
Russian snow flower, coxcomb, sumac, marigold, and others of a similar 
nature. 

First fill in the flower with French knots of the leading color, then Tisiug 
Heminway's filling silk (split), pass the needle through from the back, take 
a double strand of filling silk, pass the fine thread over it and through the 
work at about the same place the needle came up. As the split silk is tight- 
ened, the double silk naturally will fall into place ; cut the double silk tlie 
length best adapted to the height of the flower. Repeat this stitch until the 
flower is sufiSciently covered to appear well. If the stitches are very much 
crowded the flower will look heavy. 

By varying the size of the French knot wliich forms the groundwork of 
the flower, its surface can be be raised more or less, as desired. 



22 



A LADY'S BOOK 



CATCH-ALL FOR CLOSET. 




Material used — linen duck. Pattern outlined in Japan wash silks. Edges 
bound with braid of contrasting color. 



EMBKOIOERY HINTS. 



Very good effects may be produced by using crewel for certain parts of a 
design and silk for others, or by working it in crewel and only touching up 
with silk. 

In very delicate coloring it will frequently be found an advantage to thread 
the needle with two strands of diflerent colored silk — thus, blue and green or 
green and gold; and, in some cases, where a purple is too red, a single strand 
of a related blue will give it the required tone. This can only be done by a 
person with a very accurate eye for co'or. The silks used together must al- 
ways be related hues and of the same tone in the scale. 



ti^f ART EMBROlbERY IN SILK. 



23 



TWO PRETTY SATCHET DESIGNS. 



^^IflllMllliiilMW 



rwr-i - ^^iz 



^ i 






^ajaiiim 




SATCHET FOR GLOVES. 




Cut a piece of plush the required size; embroider a design; trim the edges 
with silk cord, aud line with quilted satin of some pale color. 



24 



A lady's book 



SILK WORK BAG, 




The original from which this engraving is ■made is about fourteen 
inches long. The upper portion is a pretty shade of maroon satin, and 
the lower part a pale pink. 

The l^not of ribbon at the side represents light blue, pink and olive 
colors. The silk balls at the bottom being the same combination. 

The flowers are made of plush petals (pale blue), and the leaves are 
worked in silk chenille. 



HOW TO WASH SILK ARTICLES. 

Wash in luke-warm water, using a very little white castile soap in the 
water, and avoid rubbing the article as much as possible. 

Rinse in clean cold water, and squeeze the article in a clean dry cloth 
to dry it, never wring it ; never use acid or alkali in washing silk. Dry 
at once, and when nearly dry, place between a dry, smooth cloth with 
weight enough to press the article smooth. 

Always use Heminway's pure silk. 



ox ART EMBROIDERY IN SILK. 



25 



L.ADIES' WORK BAG. 




The accompanying can be made of momie cloth, linen, satin, or pon- 
gee silk, lined with different colored satin. 

It is ornamented with intersecting circles worked in contrasting colors, 
either darned or woven in silk. 

An inch and a half from the top are two rows of stitching, through 
which pass ribbons used as draw strings. 



MATCH SAFE. 




A quaint device for lioldirisj matches is made of a pair of little woodeu 
gjjoes winch are manufactured for this purpose. They can be purchased for 



26 



A LADY S BOOK 



thirty cents a pair. The foundation seen here for mounting tliem is made 
of a piece of tliin board, six by eight inches. It is covered witli plush ovc~ 
a layer of cotton, with a few sprays of flowers embroidered on it. Cover the 
back of the board with sateen or muslin. The rest or support at the back is 
made of a piece of paste-board the size of the board, covered neatly on botli 
sides with the sateen ; overhand it on the board at the top, make a narrow 
strap of the sateen five inches long and attach it at the bottom of back and 
lioard to keep it from spreading too much. Gild the shoes and tack them 
on. Another pretty idea, and one with very little trouble, is to gild the shoes, 
bore holes through the sides, tie them together with satin ribbon and hang 
them on the wall or suspend them from the chandelier. 



FLAT-IRON PAPER WEIGHT. 




A paper weight both new and pretty is made by covering a common flat- 
iron wiih some thick soft material which caii be fastened on with mucilage, 
just enough being used to hold the material firmly, and not enougli to strike 
through to the right side. Decorate t^he material by an embroidered spray, 
and a small tliermometer, such as ma_, be procured at any fanej^ store; may 
be tacked on or not, as desired. 

A convenient addition sometimes is a small pocket just large enough to 
hold a few postage stamps. 



ON ART EME50IDERY IN SILK. 



2t 




Ladies who have au accumulation of odd colors in worsted or yarn will 
find this a very useful way of disposing of them to advantage: 

Cast on a needle ahout fourteen stitches, knit an inch or more of a color 
and Join on oihcr colors, knitting about the same length. Cut out a piece of 
lieavy canvaj the desirable size for the rug and hem the edges. Embroider 
prettily, in Ileminway's silks, a piece of cloth for the centre-piece. Then sew 
with close stitches one edge of the knitted stiip around the border of the 
canvas, and fill all the space between that and the centre-piece with other 
strips placed about an inch apart. Cut with sci.'^sors the edge cf the 
knitted strip not sewed to the canvas, ;uid lun-avol as far a.s possible. To 
give the yarn a more wrinkled effect, dampen and press the strips before 
sewing on. 



PORTIERES. 



Sheila cloth is an admirable mateiial for tlic portieres of an ordinary room. 
It is heavy in texture, and being alii<e on both sides, renders the ordinary 
lining needless. Of the several colors in which it is sliown, the most effec- 
tive is Indian red and black. 



26 



A LAbv^g toot 



A Successful Kxi>eriiiient 

in embroidery has been made on gold cloth — that is, on the material made 
for the Associated Ariists, which is, in fact, cloth-of-gold, it being woven 
from gold thread. The design is a large bunch of pink and creamy peonies, 
with all their luxuriance of color and form. The effect is superb, the cloth 
taking the embroidery as readily as canvas. The special aim of the experi- 
ment was to meet the need of hiding the unsightly back of an upright piano, 
for which some screen different from a curtain is in constant demand. 



KEY RACK. 




This pretty and useful little ornament can be made with very little trouble. 
It requires a rolling pin of small size and preferably of some soft wood. 
Gild the handles with "Queen's Liquid Gold," cover the body with your em- 
broidered strip, lapping one edge over the other and catching firmlj^ with 
strong stitches. Screw in five little brass hooks as represented in the cut, 
then finish with ribbons. 



6^ ARf EMBfeOrbEftT iN SILK. 



29 



RIBBON WORK. 




To do this work requires but little instruction other than that required 
to do embroidery in the Kensington; when the principle of shading i^ 
once acquired, the stitches are easily learned: then, taste, ingenuily niid 
practice will master all styles of art embroidery. Ribbon work is rapidly 
executed, and it is much admired for home decoration. The flowers 
and buds only are made of ribbon, i. e., the petals only; the foliage in 
.irr xsene, chenille, filoselle or embroidery silk, as the design and material 
indicate; for a large design on heavy material, arrasene; on satin for 
elegance, chenille. For small fine work use filoselle, and embroidery 
silks for standard work. 

If the design, for instance, be a wild rose, two or three shades of 
ribbon (rose color) are required; this cut in the form of the petals but 
double the size; run a thread around t/ie edge by which to gather it, 
draw the thread, and as it gathers turn under, forming the exact shape 
on the petal as on the design, stitching the gathering to keep it in form, 
then sew down on the design in blind stitches; then form another and 
sew down, using the different shades of ribbon as required by the prin- 



30 A lady's book 



ciple of true art. The petals all in, fill in the centre with French 
knots, and add the stamens same as in the " Kensington." 

The opening of buds is represented by ribbon in the same manner, 
using for the covering the material selected for the foliage. Should the 
design be daisies, select the colois you desire them, and if large, treat in 
the same way as the rose, but if sniull, take the chenille needle and 
thread it with the ribbon of the width of the daisy petals and draw 
through the work from the outline of the petal to the centre and fasten 
the ends on the back with needle and thread. And for poppies, anemone 
and other flowers having large petals, treat same as the rose. 

By permission of Tj. Maria Oheeny, Detroit, Michigan. 



TIDY. 




The above is the engravino^ of a dark olive sateen tidv about fliree-quarters 
of a yard long and lialf a .yard wido. The spra}' of wild roses is made exactly 
the same as that explained in riljbon work article on page 29. The tassels 
are of olive color silk and quite inexpensive. This tidy is also very pretty 
used as a scarf for a small stand. 



ox AUT EMIiUOIDEin- I.V SILK. 



31 



PIANO SCARF. 




Some 3'ears ago it was an unheard of thing for a lady to think of making 
a piano cover, but now that the upright pianos are so universally used, the 
cover comes in for its share of home talent, and it certainly gets it bj^ the 
amount of work that is expended on that article. 

The design of the one seen licre is very handsome and not as much work 
as a great many. The pond lilies being made of white silk — cut soft white 
silk in bias strips, double and fold it to represent the petal of the lily as 
nearly as possible, sow it in place and continue in this manner until tlic lily 
is formed. They can be purchased read3'-madc if preferred, and is the work of 
only a few moments to fasten them in place. The leaves and stem are 
worked in arrasene. The centre of the cover is made of dark blue silk, the 
same shade as the plush blind, stitch the band on after it is embroidered, and 
line all with silesia. Use the spike chenille fringe for the bottom, that being 
the newest for that kind of work. 



32 A lady's book 



TABLE COVER. 

This is very simple, the work being such as can be carried in a small work 
bag and employed at odd moments. 

Make the body of olive green felt, any size desired, having all four of the 
edges simply pinked. Take four squares of peacock blue plush, on each of 
which embroider a spray of flowers. Blind stitch these pieces on the four 
corners of the felt, and j-our cover is complete. Of course the size of the 
smaller square must depend upon the size of the cover. An eight-inch square 
of plush to a cover measuring one yard is about the right proportion. 



CRETONKE TABLE COVER. 

A pretty and inexpensive cover can be made as follows: 
Take nine squares of cretonne, each square measuring twelve inches. Sew 
these together in the form of a larger square, after which cover the seams 
with narrow black velvet ribbon, on which is worked a catch stitch in yellow 
silk. Lino with Canton flannel in gray, olive, scarlet, or brownish yellow. 
The edges may be finished with balls of contrasting colors, with fringe, with 
white Guipure lace, or with a pinking of felt or flannel set between the outer 
part and lining. 

In making this cover care should be taken in the selection of cretonne. 
Flower patterns on pale backgrounds — particularly tints of green, pink, blue 
and yellow, show to far better advantage than highly colored patterns on 
black or dark grounds. Two prettily contrasting cretonnes should be used, 
one forming the centre and corner, the other the intermediate squares. Braid 
may be substituted for the velvet ribbon if desired. 



A SUGGESTION. 

To make Linen Work smooth and even when it is finished, it should be 
dampened all over at the back with a sponge, and then stretched tightly and 
evenly, face downward, on a board, or pinned out on a nailed carpet with a 
clean cloth underneath it. When the work, as well as the linen, is quite dry, 
it may be taken up, and if the edges show the pin-marks, they can be 
smoothed with the fingers. When linen work is washed, it must be treated 
in the same way. 



ON ART ElIBROIDEKY IN SILK. 



33 



1>RAWN WORK. 








During the last season this worl<^ has become more popular than ever, and 
in no case is it seen to better advantage than in tlie pretty scrim toilet sets 
sucli as our cut represents. 

Little can be said by way of explanation, but such of our readers as are 
not already acquainted with the work, need spend but a little time in the in- 
spection of the enlarged section to understand it thoroughly. Narrow satin 
ribbon, the same color as the silk used, adds much to the general appearance, 
and is used as our illustrations represent. 



34 



A lady's book 



Enlarged Section, 




AFKOJ^, 




Material— scrim. Hem the sides and bottom, then feather-stitch around 
at the head of the hem, and full a little Oriental lace on the bottom. The 
cut represents work done in Japan Floss of a briglit yellow, the ribbons 
used beintc of the same shade. 



ON ART EMBROIDERY IN SILK. 



35 



SQUARE FOR A SILK QUILT, 




This handsome design for a silk quilt represents a square of lemon 
colored satin measuring ten inches, the ground being outlined in the 
cob-web pattern while the flowers and leaves are embroidered in Ken- 
sington stitch with split filling silk, 



36 



A LADY S BOOK 



WASTE PAPER BASKETS. 




We do not think a written formula necessary to accompany the illustra- 
tions of scrap baskets, for a person can see just liow they are made. 

Of course, the material and embroidered desifi^ns can be as expensive and 
elaborate as desired Many styles of plain baskets for trimming are now 
kept at Art Needlework stores, 



ON ART EJrBROIDERY IV SILK. 



37 




SOFA f»ILLOW. 

This design, made ia the 
form of a large bag, is of 
olive green plush, lined 
with pale pink satin, and 
tied with a large bow of 
ribbon to match the lining. 
The letters are of heavy 
tinsel cord. 



Material — gendarme blue plush. Spray of pink roses worked in Hemin- 
way's Japan Floss ; the only other decoration bein^ a rich bow of wide satio 
ribbon, of appropriate color. 



38 



A LADY S 1300K 




Body of olive brown sateeu, with a spray of goldenrod worked iu plush 
stitch. (See page 21.) 

At least six shades of yellow, from the palest to the deepest, should be 
used iu the liowers. Finish the edge with a heavy gold silk cord. 

PHOTOGKAPH CASE. 





A. piece of plush or velvet, 8x18 inches, will make this case nicely, the 
same quantity of silk or satin being required for luiing. Embroider your de- 
signs near the ends of the long strip, line the whole jiiece and turn each end 
up to the depth of three inches to form the pocket. This must be carefully 
pverh^nded, top and bottom, with fioe silk. 



ox ART EMBROIDERY IS Srt.K. 



39 




PHOTOGKAPH CASE. 

The same dimensions are used in this case as 
in the preceding one, the only diflerence being 
that the embroidered design is on the outside of 
the case when closed. 

A case made of terra cotta plush, or one of the 
new changeable reds, is a pretty ornament, simpl}'' 
tied with broad ribbon of corresponding color, 
and witli no other attempt at decoration. 



PHOTOGRAPH CASE. 

This design represents peacock blue plush hned 
with a pale pink satin, one corner being turned down 
sufficiently to show the cards within. Tlio sides and 
bottom must be firmly fastened, the top alone re- 
maining open for the reception of pictures. 





WALL. ORNAMENT. 

To make this little article take a piece of paste-board, 
six by eight inches, cover with Canton flannel, and after- 
ward with pale blue silk, embroidered with trailing ar- 
butus. Silesia matching the silk in color will do for the 
back. 

The little thermometer, measuring barely three inches 
in length, is made solely for use in fancy work, and may 
be procured from most dealers in fancy goods. It may 
be either glued, or tacked in position, after which the 
card is suspended by a ribbon. 



46 



A Lady's nooii. 




WALL POCKET. 

A pocket for letter paper can easily be 
made hy taking a piece of card-board, 
9x12 inches, and covering with some light 
colored material, smooth and soft. Take 
a darker shade for the pocket and shape 
it as shown in illustration. Place some 
needlework design on the pocket, line with 
stiff crinoline, atid then placing it on the 
rectangular piece first covered, carefully 
overhand the edges together. Finish with 
ribbons of the darker shade and silk tas- 
sels, or balls, of both shades. 



WALL ORNAMENT. 

This ornament lias for its foun- 
dation a common Japanese fan. 
Take olive plush, or velvet, and 
cut a piece the shape of the fan, 
but half an inch larger all around. 
Embroider a spray of pansies in 
shades of lavender and purple, 
then lay smoothly on the fan and 
baste a short distance from the 
edge. Turn in the edge of the 
plush and blind stitch to the fan. 
The thermometer may be attached 
either with stitches or mucilage. 
A large ribbon bow completes 
the ornament. 




OS ART EMBROIDERY IN SILK. 



41 



WAIili POCKET. 




The illustration represents 
a Japanese fan covered with 
plush, after being embroid- 
ered in Japan Floss. Care 
should be taken in pasting 
the plush so it will be smooth, 
and do not apply much 
paste as it may come through 
to the face. Line the fan 
with silesia. 

Take a fan-shaped piece of 
white paste-board, a little 
narrower than the fan itself, 
and attach at sides, this will 
make the fan itself round 
out in front and make a 
pocket. Attach it to the 
wall with two hooks secured 
to the white paste-board. 



SI^IPPER CASE. 

Height, 17 inches; width at top, 11 inches; 
width at bottom, 9i inches. 

The frame can be made as fancy and ex- 
pensive as desired. Tack a piece of colored 
card board (an}' dark color) on the back. The 
front to bo made of plush lined with very 
heavy crinoline. Any appropriate design 
may be painted or embroidered on the plush. 

If embroidered, use Japan Floss silk, whicli 
will stand exposure to light better than ordi- 
nary silks. 




42 



A LADY S T200K 



WALL POCKET. 








A very artistic wall pocket for newspapers is shown in this Oliistration. 
\Vhile it will add to the decoration of any room it will be found extremely 
useful. Heavy pasteboard is used for the foundation, the dimensions of the 
piece is liftceu by twenty-five inches. The covering used for this is old gold 
sateen that comes for embroidering purposes. The pinks are embroidered 
in shades of })iiik aud olive green silks ; the initials in two shades of jiink. 
This coverhig is basted on the buck and front of the paste-board. The edges 
are Lurued in aud neatly overhanded together. The lower part is then turned 
over and fastened on tlie back, as here indicated. Brass rings are sewed on 
corners to hang it up by. Bows of satin ribbon, the shade of the darkest 
pink, are placed on each corner. 



dJf AftT EMBROIDERY IN' SILK. 



45 



RACK FOR NEWSPAPERS. 




A twenty-five cent wire broiler can bo converted into the prettiest wall 
pocket for newspapers that one can imagine. Select one the desired size, file 
the handle off of one side, gild the broiler with the liquid gilt, which comes 
in bottles, prepared for such purposes. 

The decoration for the front is made of peacock lilue plush, with a bunch of 
cone flowers embroidered on in shades of yellow silk; these are the latest 
used for decoration and are very graceful and pretty; this piece is lined with 
silk the color of the flowers, the edges of this and the plush are turned in and 
overhanded neatly together, it is then slipped underneath the second wire at 



44 



A Lady's book 



each side and fastened to the broiler at each corner, A piece of gilt cord 
must be laced back and forth on the bottom where the broiler is joined to 
keep the papers from slipping through. Peacock blue satin ribbon is used to lie 
the back and front together, a bow of the same is also tied through the handle. 
Very small broilers make pretty letter pockets made up in the same way. 



BRUSH HOLDER. 




Size of frame, 1 3 inches on each side. Individual taste may be consulted 
in the color and material used for covering. The lap that holds the l)rush 
after being embroidered should be lined with some stiff material and securely 
fastened at the back of triangle. Finish with a knot of ribbons of tliree colors; 
deep and rich shades, contrasting strongly, being used almost exclusively. 



ON ART EMBROIDERY IN SILK. 



4S 




BRUSH HOLDER. 

The description accompanying the 
preceding article will apply equally 
well to this. The wooden palette 
and other shapes for brush holders 
can be obtained at fancy goods stores. 



CARD POCKET. 

The accompanying is made of wooden 
butter plates, oue cut crescent shape, as 
shown iu the ilhistratioii. Cover both pieces 
with plush, holding it iu place Vjy using 
mucilage. Line with silesia. after which 
overhand the pieces together aud suspend 
by broad satin rilibon. 




4d 



A Lady's book 




This cut shows a tidy of momie cloth, stamped to represent different fruits 
which are worked in their natural colors with Hemiri way's silk. Berries are 
worked in double French knot, other fruits are darned and the leaves are in 
double or single outline to suit the taste. 

This class of work is also adapted for splashers, buffet and bureau covers. 



IMPORTANT. 

In our positions as manufacturers we cannot supply ladies direct with our 
Specialties, but we can and will facilitate their procurement. With this in view, 
we have determined to receive orders direct, and to place them with some 
reliable dealer who will furnish the precise articles required. As heretofore, 
we will be pleased to furnish information regarding our goods whenever such 
requests are accompanied by postage stamps sufficient to cover the expense 

to us. 

The cost of sending merchandise by mail between places unequal in dis- 
tances apart is the same, regardless of space or time taken in transportation; 
and if your mercliant cannot supply your demand for our goods, you will save 
time and trouble by sending direct to us for any desired articles. 

If you do not know exact eost of our different productions we assure you 
that 3'ou will receive full value for any money that is sent in our care, for your 
orders will be placed by us only with such houses as wo know are perfectly 
reliable. 



ox ART EMIillOIDEKY IN SILK. 



47 



SCARF. 




This scarf is something- (^uite new and novel, though bordering a little 
upon crazy work. 

It can be made frcuu any accumulation of old ribbons, bits of silks, satin 
and velvet, the strips being but three-eighths of a yard long, and of any 
width. Each piece of ribbon should be decorated in some way, as shown in 
the cut. Fancy stitches in colored silks, designs embroidered or painted, 
spangles, coins, and different colored tinsels, all help to produce a rich and 
striking effect. Overhand the strips together until the scarf is 1 -J yards long, 
line with silesia, place balls, coins, or crescents at the ends, and draw the 
scarf through two brass rings, such as may be bought from 25 cents up- 
wards. 



A lady's book 



SCARF. 




Our readers can refer to page 19 for this work in detail. 

The material used is scrim, which can be bought from 10 cents per yard 
upwards, one and a quarter yards being a good length for a scarf. Before 
drawing any of the threads, the whole scarf should be hemmed or hem- 
stitched, if one be willing to expend that amount of labor. 

Lace fulled on makes a j^retty finish for the ends, or silk tassels may be 
substituted. 



ON ART EMBROIDERY IN SILK. 



49 



SCARF. 




Material — pongee silk, 1^ yards in length. 

The design of Japanese lilies is worked in double outline stitch with filo- 
selle, the whole thread being used. In this scarf dull blues are used for one 
lily and bud, dull pinks for a second, and yellows for the third, the back- 
ground being then heavily darued in old gold filoselle, so as to throw the pat- 
tern in relief. Ohve greens are used for the leaves. 



50 



A LADY S BOOK 



DRAPERY. 




Fig. 1 



^^sm^pwf^^P^^'^^ ^ ^^^^f^ ^^^^^w^^ 




Pig. 2. 




FiQ. 3. 



ON ART EMEROIitEKY I.N SILK. 



51 



DRAPERY. 




Fig. 4. 




Fig. 5. 

We present a number of styles of window and mantle draperies, which 
may be made of rich materials or of inexpensive materials, such as colored 
Canton tiannel, cloth and felc. 

When felt is used tlio effect is brightened by adding a facing of plush or 
velvet just above the fringe. Fig. 4 is very pretty made in this way. 

Fig 3, of dark red plush, embroidered witli nasturtiums, is suitable for a 
window, and its companion piece can be worked with a trumpet vine, both 
Howers requiring the same shades of yellow. 

Fig. 2 is in olive plush, embroidered handsomely with apple blossoms. 

Fig. 1 has tlic mantle board and drapery of peacock blue plush, the em- 
broidered piece underneath being of old gold satin. 



S2 



A tADf's wot 



STYLES OF SCREENS NOW IN USE. 

Screens form so important a part in liome decoration now, we think it well 
to show a few popular styles. These can be copied at but slight expense by 
such as have a little ingenuity. Nearly any man with a little knowledge of 
the use of tools can make a plain frame, and there are always carpenters 
ready to do just such little jobs. 




■■■■a 

!«■■■ 

!■■■« 



Having your frame, go to some furniture dealer and get a little of the prep- 
aration they use for ebonizing furniture. This you can apply yourself; or, 
should you prefer it, get abottle of "Queen's Liquid Gold" and gild all the wood- 
work. 

A cheap and very serviceable screen can bo made by tacking stout un- 
bleached muslin on all sides of the frame, drawing it perfectly tight. This 
affords a firm foundation upon which you can now paste pretty wall paper. 



ON ART EMBROIDERY IN SILK. 



63 



both sides of the screen being treated alike. The usual border around all 
the edges, or, when a very deep border, simply at the top and bottom, is all 
the finish required. 

A screen quite as serviceable, and much more show}-, is made in tlie same 
way, substituting Lincrusta "Walton for the paper. This i^5 to be found at any 
upholsterer's, and differs from the common paper, inasmuch as it is sold by 
the yard. 




With the screens intended more for artistic decoration tlian for actual wear 
and tear, we want ricli and closely woven fabrics, delicately painted or em- 
broidered. 

"While the work by brush or needle is distinctively woman's work, the fit- 
ting in of the fabric to the frame can scarcely be done successfully, save by 
hands accustomed to the lal)or. So our advice is, leave tliat to the upholsterer, 
making sure that he understands his business. 



u 



A LADY^S BOOK 





M. Heminwat & Sons Silk Co. have received Medals of Superiority at 
every exhibition where their productions have been represented, .and a Special 
Certificate of Award from the judges at the Centennial Exhibition at Phila- 
delphia, 1876. 



ON ART EJIHKOIDEKV IN SILK. 



55 



NETTED SHADE. 

Tliis illustration represents a net- 
ted lamp shade, made of IIemin- 
way's Crochet Silk, in a rieli 
orange color, with bows of narrow 
ribbon at each side and a fringe of 
crochet silk three inches deep. 

The net work is made with a reg- 
ular netting needle. The number 
of stitches vary from 180 to 200, 
according to the size of the shade. 

A wire is run through the stitches 
at the top and Joined to form a ring. 
It is necessary for a person to exercise some ingenuity in this work, but 
/hen they onco understand it, will lind it very quick and fascinating. 




A pretty Pockct-Handkercllief Satclict may be made twelve inches 
square, bringing the corners into the centre, sewing three together, and leaving 
one to turn back, envelope fashion. Quilted silk or satin looks best for this, 
with either a spray emliroidcred in the centre of each diamond formed by 
the quilting, or a pearl or other bead at each intersection. 

Tiie small, cheap, colored-silk handkerchiefs are now, as little novelties, 
being quilted inside; with strong satchet powder in the lining; edged with 
coifee-colurcd lace; and fastened together in the centre by the corners with 
a bow of satin ribbon. Another stjde of pocket-handkerchief satchet, intended 
to hold handkerchiefs in a drawer, can be made of plain color cotton-backed 
satin with two pockets. On the top a white handkerchief with fancy l)order 
is folded and arranged with four pearl-lieaded pins and stitches in the centre. 

New Perambulator Covers of old gold satin, with a border worked in large 
cross-stitch in black silk, and a good sized monogram in the left hand lower 
corner, look well. 



56 



A lady's book 




HEAD REST. 

The Crescent head rest deserves 
to remain popular, being easy to 
nnake, cooiforiable for use, and an 
attractive addition to any chair. 

Its name indicates its shape. It 
should l)e filled with feathers and 
fastened to the chair by means of 
ribbons. 



HEAD REST. 

This style of head rest is 
also much used, and while 
much richer whenomljroid- 
ered in silks, is still very 
ornamental when made of 
some pretty cretonne. A 
design of wild roses on pale 
blue is charming, but ex- 
perience teaches us that 
olives, maroons, and other 
dark shades are most ser- 
viceable. 




ON ART EMBROIDEfeY IN SILK. 



t1 




CTIATR BACK. 

This \\'ork is similar lo that 
sliown in our fan thermometer 
on page 40, the embroidered 
material Tieing neatly tacked to 
the circular piece in the Ijack of 
the chair. 



CUSHION FOR CHAIR. 

This should be made like any 
cushion caro being taken to have 
it soft enough to fit the form easilj'- 
Similar cushions are frequently 
made for the seats. 




A LADY S IIOOIC 




The latest craze in foot rests is the milking stool. 

Upholster the top with an embroidered piece, gild the legs with liquii 
and decorate with ribbons. 



gold 



TRANSFERRING DKSTGNS. 



To transfer a design from paper to the ground of a light-colored stuff, the 
best way is to trace the design on tissue or otlier tliin jiapcr, to lay the ma- 
terial flat upon a table, and fix the place of the pattern upon it very cx::ctly. 
Then put a piece of carbonized blue or lilack paper, fnco downward on the 
material, between it and the paper pattern, and with a stiletto, metallic pencil 
orknitting-necdle, or other hard pointed, but not too sharp instrument, retracing 
the design, taking care to keep the paper pattern from slipping, and that 
the fingers do not press so heavily on the transferring paper as to cciiise the 
color to como off unduly. The ordinary carbonized paper is easily procured. 
The objection to it is that the color may come off too readily, and a shade of 
bhio or gray be left on the material, especially if the latter be at all of a rough 
or woolly texture. Before a new sheet of this paper is used, it should be rubbed 
gently with a cloth so as to remove any unfixed color. 



ON ART KMBROIDERY IX SILK. 



69 



4 

iJ4 




J-l^Bllff 



u 



Art needle-work iind valuable cniliruideries arc frcciuently ruined, or their 
licauty nuich impaired l)\' wasliiiiK tjiem with ordinary soap, which is too 
rank for such delicate articles. A simple, and the proper method is to make 
suds of hot water and I\oi!Y Soap, and allow to cool till lukewarm. This 
SOUition, while very cllective, is perfectly harmless. 



60 A lady's book 



CRAZY WORK. 

No fancy work allows for greater display of individual taste and ingenuity 
than crazy work, and certainly nothing of the sort has taken so great a hold 
upon the minds of the ladies. 

It is claimed by many that the mania fur doing crazy patch-work is on the 
decline, which may in a sense be true, but it will never die out. Every lady 
has an accumulation of odd pieces of silk which are not adapted for any 
particular article, and cannot possibly be put to better advantage than that 
of crazy quilting. 

As the crazy ((uilt is still popular, we will begin by describing its different 
varieties; but will first give a few hints which will be of use to beginners. 
Have your foundation upon which the pieces arc to be placed all of one de- 
gree of coarseness, and something which is not too limp. Perhaps the most 
desirable is unbleached muslin or Canton flannel. 

Arrasene, Chenille, Kensington, satin stitch and French embroidery, are all 
employed advantageously, and we will later give a list of designs with colors 
for working and the foundations to be used. 

Painting is also employed, but to a much less extent, partly because few 
persons can paint, and because so many consider it unsuitable, though of 
course this is a matter of taste. 

Handsome pieces of brocaded plush, satin or silk, of course need no em- 
broidery, and are very effective if the stitches surrounding them are bright 
contrasting colors in silk. 

A charming fancy for those who tat can be produced by using the finest 
thread, and tat a number of tiny rosettes of any design ; join these by a single 
tack and place over pale blue satin, the effect is most delicate. 

Another odd fancy is to spatter on satin or silk pieces as follows: 

Pin the material tightly and smoothly upon a common table, then select 
from your Autumn souvenirs such leaves as are prettily shaped and not too 
large, affix them to the material by pins placed upright!}', then take common 
ink of the best quality or diluted India ink, dip a tooth-brush lightly in and 
expel as much of the ink as possible on the edge of the saucer whicli con- 
tains the ink, then take a fine tooth comb in the left hand holding it over the 
work, and draw the tooth-brush lightly over it. The ink will fall on the ex- 
posed satin in the finest spray ; continue so doing till you have the satin (not 
covered by the ferns or leaves) as dark as you desire, then remove llicm and 
you will find their shape perfectly on the satin surrounded by the darker tint 
where the ink fell on the exposed satin. 

Appliijue is extremely' handsome vvlien niceljr done. One quilt we saw haci 



ON ART EMBROIDERY IN SILK. 61 

a baby's bottine about 2+ inches high, cut from the palest nile green satin, 
buttonholed, stitched with red Japan JStching Silk, upon black satin; a tiny- 
bow of pink color ribbon was placed at tlie toe, and a lacer composed of a 
crimson silk cord was put in so as to resemble a laced lioot. The effect was 
very good. A crimson satin piece had an orange satin crescent and star but- 
tonholed in. It was odd and pretty. 

For brier or wild roses, nothing can be nicer than pink crepe. Take a 
small piece, double it and gather the ends together ; after a few trials you will 
be able to make a very good imitation of a rose leaf; place these on apiece 
of plush or other material. Five form a rose. Fill up the centre with French 
knots in Heminway's golden yellow embroidery silk and work stems and lit- 
tle sprays in outline stitch with green and brown Japan Etching Silk. After 
a little practice buds may be formed and nothing can be more dainty. 

In some brocades there is a decided pattern of leaves, fruit or flowers. 
Cut out one figure, paste to some material and carefully buttonhole around 
the edge with Japan Etching Silk in some color that will contrast with tlie 
material. If there are any large veins in the leaf these may be lightly out- 
lined with Japan Eloss of the Fame color as etching silk edges. A pretty 
idea is to seam two small pieces of the same material (though contrasting 
colors) together, and stamp a design upon them ; work as one piece. 

An odd fancy in a quilt attracted our attention. With a sharp lead pencil 
outline a pair of embroidery scissors upon a piece of silk Either work solid 
with Heminway's Emlroidery Silk, or outline in Jajtan Etching Silk, vsing 
contrasting colors and not forgetting the screw in the middle. The ratlier 
old design of a half opened Japanese fan is still popular. 

So popular has the Scotch thistle become for decorative work that a special 
line of colors has been prepared, notably a most peculiar whitish fawn shade 
exactly the color of thistle-down. Small single peacocks' feathers are worked 
in outline stitch with yellow or brown filling silk (single strand,) in back- 
grounds of contrasting color. 

The crazy quilt may be built — for it really is built piece after piece — in 
many different ways : 

M^de in blocks, threc-eigliths of a yard square, is a very convenient way. 
For a gjod sized quilt, with a border, thirty blocks will be required, each 
three-eighths of a yard square. But even in this small space, much variety 
of decoration and arrangement may l)e shown. The commonest way, per- 
liaps, is to intermingle embroidered and decorated pieces with the plain 
pieces indiscriminately. When it is made in blocks, here is an idea which 
bids fair to be popular. It is to place a square, of one color — black is the 
most effective — either of satin, silk, or velvet, but all of one material, in the 



62 A LADY'S BOOK 



centre of each block. Supposing 3^our blocks to be three-eighths of a yard 
square, the centre-piece should be four inches square. Put the corner of the 
centre-piece opposite the side of the foundation, square. Now embroider 
upon the centre-piece a handsome, though small, bunch of flowers, a bird, 
a small spray with a butterfly, small outline figures, etc. Fill in all around 
the centre, in crazy style, adding only handsome stitches, as any embroidery 
upon the small pieces spoils the effect of the centre-piece. This is handsome, 
and for those who have not time to embroider a great amount, is very con- 
venient, and something new too. 

Many different ways of joining the blocks are used, the commonest being 
to join the blocks, and then work fancy stitches over the seams thus formed; 
when such is done, we would advise the introduction of but one stitch — say 
the old, though always popular, herring-bone stitch. The nicest way of join- 
ing is to place narrow ribbon — velvet, either dark colored or black— over the 
seams; then herring-bone from edge to edge, completely over the ribbon, 
with golden colored silk. To make it still more elaborate, some persons 
place a felt daisy at the corner of the blocks where the velvet crosses. 

The border of the crazy quilt is a very important element in its construction, 
as it forms a back-ground, or frame, for the glowing centre. The above men- 
tioned quilt was bordered with rose-colored brocaded plush, eight inches 
wide. The seam, between the border and the work, was covered by a very 
heavy, handsome, old gold chenille cord. It may be here remarked that a 
border either dark, or else very bright in tone, should be chosen, not a neutral 
tint. 

Some persons put a wide border of satin, and embroider all around it, and 
though this represents a great deal of time and work, yet, in our opinion, is 
not f=o desirable as the plain material, which, if of a good color, makes such 
an effective foil to the many colored patchwork. 

Some of the most admired combinations for borders are: 

Bright yellow plush, with crimson chenille cord. 

Rose colored plush, with old gold chenille cord. 

Olive green plush, with yellow chenille cord. 

Peacock blue plush, with pink chenille cord. 

Pale blue plush, with pink cheniUe cord, (although this last is almost too 
light). 

In addition to the border some people add lace to their quilt. When this is 
done, torchon or Irish lace is the most admired. This, of course, is subject 
to the taste and purse of the owner, and adds greatly to the expense. 

A lining must be added to your quilt, and there are endless varieties to 
choose from. The most luxurious is merveilleux, but others, not so expensive, 



0^ AftT EMBROfDERV IN SthK. 63 

are more in use. The new style of dress satin, in solid colors, say crimson, 
([uilted with canary-colored silk in small diamonds, is very pretty. Cheap 
cashmere may also be used, but does not answer so well, as it is limp and 
does not come in so bright tints. Delaine, nuns' cloth and farmers' satin may 
all be used with good effect. 

If the lining is to be quilted, place a thin sheet of fine batting over the 
lining before quilting. 

When the quilt is made in blocks and the lining is not quilted, a pretty 
way to make it ornamental, is : Sew the lining to the foundation by invisi-' 
lile stitches, and then with pins mark the corner of each block; the lining 
will then be divided into squares, with a pin at each corner. Now take 
Heminway's embroidery silk and work a small star, at the corner of each 
block upon the lining, catching through to the foundation and not penetrating 
to the right side of the quilt. If the silk u.sed be a bright yellow, red, blue, 
or green, the result will be very pleasing, and will take away the common- 
place look from the lining. 

Some of the "crazy workers," who have exhausted their own supply of 
designs and combinations, may find the following useful: 

A blue satin had autumn leaves in reds, yellows, browns, and a touch of 
green. 

A pink satin had one gorgeous sunflower in bright yellow, and brown, with 
sage green stem. 

A black satin had holly-berries in red, with three shades of greens. 

A rose satin had jessamine flowers in white and purple. 

White satin had pansies in three shades of purple, lavender, one yellow 
petal, and browns and greens for leaves and stems. This was lovely. 

An orange satin had the popular cat-tails in grass green, and brown, with 
a touch of mazarine blue for the water among the stems. 

Black gros grain silk had one large waterlily in white, with golden centre, 
and green stem. It was worked with filoselle in palin stitch. A cute little 
"coon " was worked in black cross-stitch upon the pilest of blue. 

A cream satin had a delicate spray of forget-me-nots in blues, yellows, and 
greens. 

A fawn colored satin had a peacock with spread tail worked upon it; 
gray and brown for the back and wings, with white for the neck, olive green 
for the top of the head and crown; peacock blue, olive and sage green, and 
bl.Tck were used for the tail. 

A gray satin had a humming bird in red, blue, yellow, green, orange, ruby, 
in the metallic hues. 

A blue satin had a horseshoe twined with clovers. The horseshoe was 



6i A ladv's sooe 



in steel gray, the flowers in pale green, and " Good Luck " in script letters 
"was in scarlet. 

A peacock blue satin had a canary perched upon a branch in two shades of 
yellow, the branch being brown and green. 

A stork in grays and whites looked happy standing upon a piece of dark 
green plush in a foil of mazarine blue silk. 

A yellow satin had a stag, in outline stitch, in browns. 

So much for crazy quilts. 

The following articles, in which crazy work is used, will all be found bright 
and attractive. 



TABl^E COVER. 

This is an exceedingly handsome cover and will repay such as can devote 
the time necessary to making it. 

The body is of a rich claret colored sateen, and measures one and one- 
quarter yards each way. Felt may be substituted for sateen, but does not look 
as well. For the border, take four strips of Canton flannel, eight inches 
wide, and in length corresponding to the sides of the sateen centre as a foun- 
dation for the crazy work. On these strips baste pieces of silks, satins and 
velvets, of all styles and colors, following no regular arrangement. Next 
ornament the seams with fancy stitches in Ileminway's embroidery silks, 
(notice cut ou page 66). 

When complete, lay the strips along each of the four edges of the 
cover, joining neatly at the corners, and finishing top and bottom Avith 
bands of black or yellow satin ribbon, held in place by fancy stitches ; then 
attach gay colored balls to the edges at intervals of four inches, using six or 
eight different colors which contrast prettily, and repeating the arrangement 
until the four sides are thus decorated. It is an object in crazy work to use 
many bright colors, red in especial being most effective. Dull colored silks 
may be utilized by working tliem in judiciously witli very bright pieces. 
Scraps of black velvet scattered all through in proximity to the Ijright reds 
and paler tints add much to the general effect. 

It is a myste-y where the idea of "crazy" patch- work originated. It would 
not be an unreasonable supposition that it opened its eyes of origin among 
the unfortunates in some of our asylums, for, although partially demented, the 
majority are neither idle nor lacking in sensible adaptation to various works 
of skill. 



ON ART EMBROIDERY IN SILK. G5 



LAMBREQUIN. 

An inexpensive lambrequin can be made of crimson felt, the lower edge 
slashed lo a depth of three inches to form a fringe. Above this is placed a 
band of crazy work, five inches wide, elaborately embroidered in silk, gold and 
silver thread, all in outline stitch. Remember that Iho general effect in all 
crazy work depends far more upon the careful arrangement of colors than 
upon the richness of material. 



CUSHION. 



Comparatively a new design in cushions is the Crescent. Made in any de- 
sired size, covered with crazy work in very small pieces, finished by a cord 
with a half dozen small plush balls at either end, it forms a very attractive 
cushion. 



CUSHION. 



Make a round bolster-shaped cushion of olive felt and gather the ends, leav- 
ing a frill three inches wide; line the frill with pink satin, and tie a bow of 
pink ribbon over the gathers at each end ; then make two strips of crazy 
work four inches wide and long enough to go around the cushion. A pretty 
fancy is to work all the stitches in pink silk to correspond with the ends. 
Tack the bands to the cushion by invisible stitches and your work is complete. 



CRETOxVNE APPLIQUE. 

Applique embroidery is now very popular. Cretonne work is one of the 
most simple and is specially adapted to ornamenting linen goods, such as 
splashers, tidies and table covers. 

First have the linen stamped with such designs as will look well with ap- 
plique. Cretonne designs, such as birds, flowers and children's figures, can 
be cut out of the piece goods and secured to the linen by a plain chain stitch 
(see cut, page 9) with Heminway's Japan etching silk. Outline the whole 
with the same make of silk. It will wash well if washed carefully, as all nice 
silk work should be. 



G6 



A LADY S liOOK 




These designs are for the 
express purpose of showing 
ladies some of the numer- 
ous fancy stitches in silk 
which can be used in dec- 
orating the crazy work so 
popular at the present date. 

The cut below rejireseuts 
a patch ten inches square, 
the pieces being sewed with- 
out regular arrangement 
upon a foundation of Can- 
ton tlaunel. 




ON ART EMBROIDERY I>f SILK 



6T 



SAMPLES. 

"We receive numerous letters asking for samples of different silks, in var- 
ious colors. "We do not retail silk, so have no remnants. Our goods are put 
up in packages to send out to dealers. To supply useful samples requires, 
considerable expense and time. 

"We have factory-ends of sewing silk — first quality — which we ])ut up ia 
full ounce packages, assorted colors, and send post paid for twenty-five cents 
in postage stamps. It is very useful and would cost four times as much if 
put up in longer lengths on spools. 

M. HEMINWAY & SONS SILK CO., 

78 Reade & 99 Church Sts., New York;. 
716 Arch St., Philadelphia. 




€8 



A LADY S BOOK 



M.HEMINV/AY & SONS' 

CROCHET SILK. 




The demand for a silk specially adapted for Crochet work has induced us 
■to place on the market this Fine Quality Crochet Silk. 

Its advantage is that the twist of the thread is such it will not split and 
rough up in working, as is frequently the objection with a knitting silk. 

For making infants' caps, sacques, socks, and coin purses, or any fancy ar- 
ticle with a fine crochet hook, we recommend our Crochet Silk; while for knit- 
ting of all kinds, our Pure Dye knitting silk is more suitably adapted. 

The quantity required should be according to the size and manner in which 
the article is knit, and will be about as follows: 

Infants' Hood 1 spool or ^ ounce. 

Infants' Sacques V spools or 2 ounces. 

Infants' Socks I spool or -J- ounce. 

Coin Purse I spool or -i ounce. 

Wristlets I spool or -^ ounce. 

Sample spool mailed, postage free, for 40 cents in stamps. 
■Six spools, $2.25. 



ON ART EMBROIDERY IN SILK. 



69 




THE REARING OF THE SILKWORM 

Is usually left to womeu ; and as the prevailing religion of Asiatic dis- 
tricts is Mohammedanism, and the customs of Mohammedan races pre- 
vail regarding the seclusion of the female sex, it is not easy for people 
of other countries and faith to penetrate to the rooms in which the various 
processes of cultivating the vsrorm, or manufacturing its product, are 
carried on. It is equally difficult to secure the adoption of any improve- 
ment in the processes where these are lacking in skill. 

It may be Inferred from the Diflfereuce 

in the sizes, color and shape of the cocoons that several varieties of the- 
worm are cultivated, though, owing to cross breeding, it may be now 
impossible to get at any typical variety. The natives, however, believe 
they have two distinct species, one of which is white and the other a 
dark color. The former they call "ipek-kurt," which simply means 
" silk-worm ; " the other is called "Arabi-kurt," or " the Arabian worm." 
There, however, seems little, if any difference in the forms of the 
cocoons from these worms. Some of the worms which they cultivate 
have four periods, and others live ; the eggs of the former being larger 
than those of the latter. Were the original types of these recovered by 
careful breeding, it is possible some of them might prove valuable. 

After the Eggs have been Deposited 

by the worms they are gathered, placed in small cotton bags, and hung 
to the ceilings or walls of the dwellings. When spring is coming round 
in the districts where sericulture is general, the seed is kept for sale in 
the bazaars, and apothecaries' and provision shops. The market price 
of a small thimbleful, in which there are about 2.000 eggs, ranges from 



VO A lady's book 



15 to 20 ceuts. The sounduess of the eggs is tested by putliug them 
into water, those wliich float being rejected as bad, the good ones sink^ 
ing. Early in April the women put the eggs into smaller bags and tie 
them next to their body, round the waist or in the arm-pits, turning them 
over every day until they are hatched. This occurs in about a week. 
The bags are then opened every day, and the worms that are hatched 
are turned out upon a tray, until the process is completed. The trays 
are first covered with a clean cloth. When the worms have been placed 
in them they are set in a sunny place, but always sheltered from the 
direct rays of the sun by a covering of gauze. Should the days or nights 
be colder than usual, the trays are brought indoors and placed on the 
' ' sandal " or brazier used for warming the room. The above is a singu- 
lar way of hatching, and one which can hardly be conducive to the 
Jiealth of the worms, though the heat is a natural heat. 

Next Come the Feeding- Processes. 

During the first two stages, the worms are cai-efully fed with mul- 
"berry leaves, picked from the twigs, and as they grow care is taken to 
give them more room and better places. They are now transferred to 
shelves placed along the sides of the room in which they are kept in the 
dwelling. This room is half-darkened, the only light it receives being 
that which comes in at the door ; in this position they are fed three 
times a day with small mulberry twigs. The old twigs are never re- 
moved, the new food being placed on the top, to which the worms grad- 
ually crawl upwards out of the dirt and refuse, by which this dirty sys- 
tem is probably prevented from killing them. At last small branches, 
iisually of a dry plant with a bright pink flower, called "ming-hash," or 
the " thousand heads," are placed on the shelves, so that the worms can 
crawl into them and spin their cocoons. The life of the worm, taken 
through all its stages from the egg to the cocoon and moth, varies from 
about fifty to eighty days. 

As Soon as the Worms Have Finished 

spinning, the cocoons are brought into the court, stripped from the 
twigs, and spread upon a mat. The largest and best cocoons are then 
assorted from the mass for breeding purposes. These are selected ac- 
cording to the size and form, color being disregarded, bcj'ond a prefer- 
ence being given to tho^e which have a slightly watered appearance. 
These are strung together by threads being passed through their outer 
covering; abort thin y are placed on each string, the strings being left 



ox ART EMBROIHEHY IX SILK. 



for three days on ibe cool clay floor of ibe room, after which they are 
gathered together, placed into cotton bags, and hung by long nails to the 
ceilings and walls. On the fourth day tbe moth emerges, first emitting 




a fluid, which dissolves one end of the cocoon and permits it to make its 
exit. The moth has a very brief life. Immediately after emerging cop- 
ulation commences, after which the female begins to lay her eggs, and 
continues for seven or eight hours, laying about 400 to 500, of which 



72 A lady's book 

about one hundred will prove unfruitful. This task ended, its life closes, 
after an existence in the butterfly stage of about a day and a half. In 
the districts of the Caucasus, where the treatment is similar, the moth 
lives about three days and lays fully 600 eggs. Those cocoons not re- 
served for breeding purposes are spread upon a mat, upon which they 
are exposed for several days to the full force of the sun's rays, being 
gathered together in a heap at night and covered up. 

The Crop of Cocoons is Usually Sold 
in the bazaar in the fresh state, and during the month of June an active 
trade is carried on, in which the prices realized range from six to twelve 
or fourteen roubles per pud, or 86 lbs. English. Formerly a custom ex- 
isted of presenting the first cocoons to the Kahn, who in return gave the 
donor a complete suit of clothes. When Shere Ali Khan came to the 
throne this custom was observed ; but the prince, who had lived all his 
life among the Kirghiz, did not appear to know what they were, and, 
thinking they were a rare fruit, deliberately commenced to eat them. 
In these Districts an Ounce of Seed or Eggs, 
which the moths from about li lbs of selected cocoons will produce, 
yield about three puds, or from 108 to 110 lbs. of undried or fresh cocoons. 
The production of this quantity will engage the labor of a family of 
four persons in the season, and require the leaf product of about twenty 
mulberry trees of average size. The ruble being worth about 2s. 6d. 
English money, the product of three puds, say on the average ten rubles 
per pud, will amount to between £11 and £12 ; from which the cost of 
seed and food for the worms has to be deducted, provided the cultivator 
does not raise the seed and own mulberry trees himself. 

The Silkworm in Central Asia 
has uot escaped the diseases to which it is incident in Europe. Its cul- 
tivators have noticed four different kinds to which it is subject, and these 
they attribute to feeding with wet mulberry leaves, to cold weather, or to 
the presence of persons who have not performed all the ablutions which the 
Mohammedan religion prescribes. Microscopic investigations have been 
made into the origin of these disorders, and the identity of one of them 
with the fearful disease which now for some years past has decimated 
the European worm has been established. The fact that the Asiatic silk 
worm is completely isolated from that of Europe, tends to demonstrate 
that tile disease is the result of overcrowding, want of cleanliness, and 
other negligences during the breeding, season. — TIte Warehovxernni and 
Drap r's Trade Journal. 



ON ART EMBROIDERY IX SILK. 



73 




The Awards at the Fair. 



From Dry Goods Chronicle, Jan. 23f/, 1886. 



THE M. HEMINWAY & SONS SILK COMPANY CARRY OFF THE MEDAL OP 
SUPERIORITY, ADDING ONE MORE TO THEIR MANY TRIUMPHS. 

Among the awards given by the judges at the late American Institute Fair 
was one to the famous old concern known as the M. Heminway & Sons Silk 
Company, of Watertown, Conn., and New York City. They were awarded 
the ''Medal of Superiority" — the highest prize given in that class — for their 
exhibit of pure dye knitting silk, Japan etching silk, and stcein and spool em- 
broidery silk and filoselle — a line of goods in the production of which the 
concern iu question have never yet been equaled. 

It is now close upon forty years since the foundation of the business now 
Cirried on under the above style was laid by Mr. M. Heminwaj', and it is 
said that he was the first to introduce spool silks to take the place of skeins 
in the market. The ''Sublime" quality of spool silk and button-hole twist 
made by the company are marvels of perfection and take precedence of every 
other kind in the market. 

As long ago as 1855 the house took the Silver Medal at the American 
Institute Fair — the highest prize given — for sewing silk on spools and em- 
broidery silk, and in 1857 carried off the Special Largo Silver Medal. Since 
then many other prizes have been won, both at home and abroad, and to-day 
it looks as though the prestige won in the past was destined to be largely 
added to in time to come. 

The New York salesrooms are at 78 Reade and 99 Church streets, where a 
large stock of the goods of the house is at all times carried. 



"74 A lady's book 



METHODS OF SILK 3IANrFACTrRE. 



The various processes which sillc undergoes in its transformation from the 
fine filluments of tlic cocoon to the heavy texture of sill<: threads, involve an 
enormous amount of hibor, the cost of which is chiefiy represented in the 
price of silk goods, the mere cocoons being comparatively inexpensive. 

The first process is reeling, an art which seems very simple, but which 
really requires much skill, tact, experience, patience and watchfulness, and 
on which ingenuity has been lavished. Yerj^ numerous have been the in- 
ventions of silk reels, by men who did, and not a few l)y those who did not 
appreciate the special mechanical difficulties to be overcome. 

One of these obstacles is tlie variable length of silk in the cocoons. No 
two of the same breed of worms will spin just the same amount. The length 
■varies from 300 to 1300 3-ards. This variable length necessitates joining the 
fillaments, of which usually from six to ten are reeled together to form a 
single thread of silk. The cocoons vary not only in length, but in fineness ; 
indeed, different portions of the same cocoon vary greatly in this respect, and 
in some of the best reeling, the outer third of the cocoon (after the floss is 
taken off), is reeled by itself, and the inner i)ortion in two separate lots. 

The reeling must not be too close to the chrysalis, as that portion of the 
silk is inferior, and not generally of good color. 

There are also imperfect cocoons, soft cocoons, double cocoons, and those 
in which from disease the worm has perished in its not quit^ completed co- 
coon. These can never be reeled completely, and often not at all. 

The water in which the cocoons are placed for reeling must not be too hot, 
or it partially dissolves the silk; nor too hard, or it renders the gum on the 
silk too brittle. 

The quality of most of the Chinese raw silk now brought to this market 
is inferior to that of Ital}' and France, not in the intrinsic character of the 
stock so much, as the defectiveness of its reeling. The difference in cost is 
about two dollars a pound 

The raw silk comes to us usually in bales of one hundred and thirty-three 
and a third pounds, and is made up in bundles weighing from eight to twenty 
pounds each, protected at the corners by floss or waste. 

The silk is taken first to the sorting room, and the various sizes of thread. 



ox ART EMBROIDERY IX SILK. f5 



or in other words, the dili'erent degrees of fineness are assorted, each by 
tliemselves. 

A ijarcel of skeins is enclosed in a hglit cotton bag, and soaked in water at 
about the temperature of 110° F. for a few hours, for the purpose of soften- 
ing the gum and facilitating the process of winding. When taken out of the 
water these bags are put in an open cylinder, porous on the sides, and set in a 
machine which is operated by steam-power, and causes the cylinder to re- 
volve with great velocity. 

In five or ten minutes the water is pressed out and the gum sufficiently 
softened to permit of ca.sy winding. It is then wound first on a spool about 
3+ inches in length. If it is Chinese silk, it is cleaned by being passed 
tlirough the cleaning machine : each thread usually passing between two 
sharp edged metal plates, which removes any unevenness, leaving the fiUa- 
ment smooth and clean. 

The Italian silk does not usually require this cleaning. The silk on the 
second spool is next passed to a doubling machine, when, if it is intended for 
organzine, two or more threads are Joined togetlier, and drawn upon a third 
spool. 

If it is intended for sewing silk or twist, four, five, si.x or more threads are 
joined together. The silk in this state is put in the spinning machine, and 
spun a certain number of turns per inch. When the silk is brought into tlie 
condition of thrown silk, tram or organzine, it is usually transferred to a reel 
and made into large skeins or hanks preparatory to being dyed the desired color. 

Tlie process of winding, cleaning, doubling, twisting, re-winding and reel- 
ing the silk, together constitute what is called throwing. The operator who 
passes it through these various processes is called a throwster. 

Tlie dyer first boils tlie silk in soap and water, (generally using a soap 
specially prepared for the purpose.) to free it from any remaining gum. and 
to give it a more lustrous appearance. 

When dried, it is put into the dyo vats, and then there is an opportunity 
for deception. By the boiling process already mentioned, the silk, if pure, 
should lose about twenty-four per cent, of its weight, from gum, sugar, waste. 
etc. If it loses more, the silk has been tampered with, or not properly 
thrown; if less, it must be of remarkably good quality, or has not been 
boiled long enough. 

By secrets known to tlie dyer, he can so fill the interstices of the silk with 
dye stuffs as to make it appear more solid and thicker, and stronger than it 
naturally would l^e, although in fact its te.xture is injured. By thus weighing 
the silk as it is called, he maj' raise the 12 ounces to 16. 18, 20. 25 or more 
ounces. 



76 A la])y's book ok art embroidery in silk. 

"When dyed, the silk i.-; Vtouud on spools, a process requiring much skill 
and care, as it is now In the condition known as soft silk. 

Silk threads arc made in all colors, and the prices at which they can be 
sold vary with the amount of weighting with dye stuffs and quality of raw 
material used. Some consumers do not exercise proper care when pur- 
chasing silk, preferring to buy where they can buy at low prices, only to find 
out in the end their work is unsatisfactory. 

There is a growing demand for pure silks, and M. Heminway & Sons are 
ready to meet it. Ladies will find Heminway's superior pure dye goods for 
sale at all first-class stores. 



Ladies who lack a natural taste for shading flowers will be aided by 
referring to the items below. The numbers represent the numbers or 
colors made in Heminway's embroidery and filling silk. For sale ia 
Art Embroidery Stores in all large cities. 

Wild Rose (light), 1659, 1661, 1663. 

Wild Rose (dark), 1663, 1665, 1667. 

Violet (light), 1477, 1479, 1481. 

Violet (dark), 1481, 1483, 1485, 1487. 

Pansy (light), 1364, 1366, 1368. 

Pansy (dark), 1368, 1370, 1372, 1374. 

Golden Rod, 1736, 1740, 1746, 1750, 

Daisy, centre with 1740 or 1T42. 

Daisy leaves, 797, 799, 801, 803. 

Mullens, 1055, 1057, 1059, 1061. 

Coxcomb, 1669, 23, 25. 

Marigold. 1740, 1742, 1746. 

Trumpet Flowers, 13, 15, 17. 

Trumpet Flowers, 1750, 1752, 1754. 

Stems for branches, 413, 415. 

Stems for flowers, 642, 644, 646. 

Heliotrope, 1477, 1479, 1481. 

Cat-tail, 415, 417. 

Apple Blossoms, 1659, 1661, 1663. 

Clematis, 1659 or 114. 

Carnation Pink, 1659, 1663, 1667, 1669. 



M. HEMINWAY & SONS SILK CO. 



(IjNrADING ORIENTAL DtES.) 




A Superior Wash Silk, 

Put up in bunches of 32 skeins each. 
Every skein is tagged "Japan Floss." 

JAPAN FLOSS is very similar to 
Filo Floss in appearance, but is much 
easier to work with, from the fact that 
it has a trifle more twist and does not 
rough up in handling. 

Ladies who have used Filo Floss will 
appreciate this improvement. Especial 
care is taken in dyeing Japan Floss, 
to make it absolutely fast color, and we 
do not hesitate to guarantee there is no 
silk in the market, either Foreign or 
Domestic, that is superior in any 
respect to Japan Floss. 

If you cannot procure it, advise us. 



M. HEMINWAY & SONS SILK CO. 

78 Heade & 99 Church Streets, New York, 

manufacturers of 
SILK and FLOSSES for Decorative Needlework Trade, 



Estahlished 1849. 




M. HEMINWAY & SONS, 
PURE DYE KNITTING SILK 

Is recommended by experienced knitters as the 
best for knitting 

Mittens, Wristlets, Stockings, etc. 




i 



SPECIAL NOTICE. 

/^HE increasing demand for an ETCHING SILK of a superior 
quality has induced us to put up an extra fine quality, which is 
made from superior raw silk, strictly pure dye and fast color. 

Other etching silk in the market is made of spun silk, which is 
procured from waste cocoons and waste ends. It has a dead appear- 
ance and rough finish, and in the first washing will change its color. 

Our Silk (which we have branded "Japan,") is made in all the staple 
colors — such as are required for etching. 

We trust the Japan etching silk will meet with the favor our Pure 
Dye Knitting Silk has attained. 

M. Heminway & Sons Silk Co. 



RULES FOR DISTINGUISHING 

HEMINWAY'S PURE KNITTING SILK FROM SPUN 
KNITTING SILK. 




PURE SILK. 
Made from best raw stock. 



SPUN SILK. 
Made from waste stock. 



Split the end of the silk and separate the fibres. If they 
have a nap or fuzz on them, and easily break by being 
tightened, it is SPUN SILK made from an inferior quality 
of cocoon and from waste stock. 

If the fibres have a smooth finish and the appearance of 
being a continuous thread, it is PURE SILK, which has 
brilliancy, smoothness and durability. 

The HEMINWAY Pure Dye Knitting SUk is made onl) 
from the best selected raw silk. 



COPY OF AWARD TO 



1. IIIIIWAY & 



^UM 00. 



International Exhibition, 





T/ie United States Centennial 
Commissio7i has examined the re- 
port of the Judges and accepted the 
following reasons, and decreed an 
award in conformity therewith. 

Philadelphia, November 13, 1876. 

PRODUCT, SEWING SILK. 
Name and Address of Exhibitor, M. HEMINWAY & SONS SILK COMPANY. 



"The undersigned, having examined the product herein described, 
respectfully recommend the same to the United States Centennial Com- 
mission for Award, for the following reasons : 

"A FULL ASSORTMENT of Colored and Black Machine 
and Sewing Silk. 

PERFECT IN QUALITY OF MATERIAL, COLOR AND WORKMANSHIP. 

" Signed, GEBHARD, Judge." 



APPROVAL OF GROUP JUDGES. 

Charles Le Boutillier, Elliot C. Cowdin, A. Behmer, 

Charles J. Ellis, John G. Messer, Hayami. 

A. Daninos, John L. Hayes. 

A true copy of the record. 

Signed by FRANCIS A. WALKER, 

Chief of Bureau of Awards. 
Given by authority of the U. S. Centennial Commission. 
A. T, Goshorn, Director General. 
J. L. Campbell, Secretary. ]. R. Hawley, President. 



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